Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Collette sorbetto top.

I know this post has been a while in coming but here it is. I first posted about Colette sorbetto top here

Since the last post I have been procrastinating about how to finish the top, whether or not to add sleeves or to bias bind as per the pattern. I then came across some wide satin ribbon in my stash and decided to use that to finish the neckline and to add sleeves.
I didn't have enough ribbon to finish the hem as well as the neckline so I just used a double row of stitching.

Pattern UsedColette sorbetto (free download) and Sorbetto sleeve (free download)
Fabric used: White linen from stash

I cut a size 16 in accordance with the measurement given but I then had to take in the side seams by a total of 6.5cms. If I had done the sleeveless option I would also have needed to raise the underarm seam.
If you are in the UK when checking measurements and cutting the pattern ensure you double check your size as this is an American pattern and sizes vary. Also check the test square before printing the whole pattern or your sizing will be completely out - don't ask me how I know this.
Apart from these alterations it was a near perfect fit. I think next time I will cut a smaller size.

I made the sleeve using the pattern from sew weekly. This pattern doesn't state what size it is made for so I made a mock up first. I had to add 5cm at the shoulder seam tapering back to the original size at the underarm seam. To do this I used the slash and spread method. I also added 3cms to the sleeve length as I prefer to cover the tops of my arms.

This is a pretty quick pattern to complete once you have the fit correct. I suggest you make a toile (mock up) first. It took me longer to decide how to finish the top than any part of construction. If I would have made it straight through it would have taken me about 2 days but I am quite slow at sewing as I like to make everything perfect (or perfect to me anyway.)

The only problems I had whilst sewing this top was with my sewing machine. My Brother computerised machine had a slight argument with the linen I was using and just wouldn't sew nice seams so out came my trusty old mechanical Toyota machine which had no problems at all with the linen. 

I really like this pattern and will definitely be making some more. There are so many variations of this top and so much inspiration on sewing blogs like 7 variations at sew weekly. You can also just google Colette sorbetto to come up with plenty of variations.
Just some of the ideas I have thought of are: adding buttons, changing the hem shape, changing the pleat, different lengths. There are just sew many ways to personalise it. 

I think this is a good pattern for a starter project for people as it is so quick (as long as you can make decisions) and easy to assemble. The instructions from Colette are straight forward and easy to understand.

Here are a few pictures of my colette sorbetto top

Me wearing my new top.


Saturday, 4 July 2015

Me and collars are not friends

I hate collars - well making them anyway!!!!

About 5 weeks ago I made a muslin of K1699 (view b top).

All went well with the muslin sewing and it only needed 2cms adding to the centre back for a perfect fit.
I then adjusted the pattern pieces and cut out the good fabric.
Again all was going well until I got to the collar section and then it started to go down hill hence the reason the top is still not finished.

First off I didn't cut enough pieces - fine an easy problem to rectify.
Then when I went to sew the collar I couldn't understand why it didn't fit the neckline until I realised I had forgotten to add the 2cms to the centre back of the collar pieces.

New pieces re-cut.

Sewing the collar pieces together I realised I had ironed (yes ironed!!) interfacing to the right side (should have been on the wrong side) of one of the collar pieces. As this was the 2nd time I had cut the pieces I thought I would cheat and just take the interfacing off and add a new piece to the correct side. WRONG.

This is the result - 1 lovely soft collar and 1 stiff and unflattering collar.

Today I am attempting to redo the collar.
I think I can get away with unpicking the one stiff interfaced piece, re-cutting this piece and stitching back in without touching the rest of the collar.
Here's hoping, wish me luck.

Once this is done I will post a full review of the pattern.